WSSA0046, SANTOS-DUMONT LARGE, BLACK LACQUER

$7,100

A Cartier Santos-Dumont in the large size, ref. WSSA0046, in stainless steel at 43.5mm by 31.4mm and just 7.3mm thin.

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A Cartier Santos-Dumont in the large size, ref. WSSA0046, in stainless steel at 43.5mm by 31.4mm and just 7.3mm thin. The dial is finished in translucent black lacquer over a square relief pattern, so the Roman numerals seem to float, and the lacquer carries onto the case. Steel sword hands cut cleanly across it, and the beaded crown is set with a blue spinel cabochon. Inside is Cartier's hand-wound calibre 430 MC, and Alberto Santos-Dumont's signature is engraved on the caseback. It is worn on Cartier's black alligator strap with the original buckle, with an additional Delugs strap and buckle included. A full set, with box, card and hang tag.

Louis Cartier designed the first Santos in 1904 for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Brazilian aviator who wanted to read the time without taking his hands off the controls. It is widely regarded as one of the first wristwatches made for a man. While the Santos de Cartier grew into a sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the Santos-Dumont stayed true to the original idea: a slim, square watch on a strap. The current collection brought back hand-winding and the fine proportions of the early pieces, and the black lacquer editions take that elegance a step further. This example is registered with Cartier, its international limited warranty runs until 2033, and the registration transfers to the next owner.

We sourced it for the lacquer. In most light it reads like a pool of ink, then the light shifts and the square relief pattern underneath rises to the surface, a detail you only find by living with the watch. At 7.3mm it disappears under a cuff, and the manual winding turns the start of each day into a small ritual. The blue cabochon is the only colour on the watch, and it is exactly enough. With a full set and warranty to 2033, it is as complete as a pre-owned Santos-Dumont gets. It is the quietest Santos, and to us the most refined. Curated with intent.